The Talavera Adventures
One thing I enjoy very much from my friend Ruth, is that she is always willing to ask for a good adventure.
Yesterday, we went to El Parían, a famous local craft market in Puebla. We were looking at Talavera pottery to get gifts for friends and loved ones (photo #1). After going to several Talavera shops and buying some beautiful, passionately blue, yellow and green kitchen accessories, we entered in a gallery-like shop. Talavera Armando (photo #2). Ruth was interested in getting information about custom made pieces. She not only got that, but she also got Mr. Mario Muñoz, the supervisor, to walk us to their factory half a block away and give us a tour.
We were first showed the minerals used as dyes (photo #3). Then, how pieces look after being shaped and cooked in the oven. They look great when naked! (photo #4).
The process begins with the pisado de barro (clay is softened by dancing, bare feet). Pieces like plates or chargers are layed down on a bed of brick (photo #5). I didn't know bricks are excellent for moisture absorption. These pieces have to be in a room where sun doesn't shine in (but not dark) because the clay would crack otherwise.
The artisan in charge of shaping the pieces at this factory makes between 50 to 80 a day. He works on a pottery wheel still operated manually (but with his feet, of course). He spends hours sitting down, skating on the bottom of the wheel (photos #6 and #7). Once they leave his hands, pieces are placed to dry for a few days.
We were also showed a Tahona, a well-like structure that is used to grind the rocks that will later turn into clay (photo #11). It was operated by horses. No longer a part of the process, they keep it in their patio (all covered in Talavera tiles) as a memento.
The last step of the process is the oven. At this place, they use a gas oven (photo #8). It is a matter of timing. The demand is large. But before that, and with the vibrant colors obtained from crushed minerals and water (photos #9 and #10) these pieces will be beautified by specialized painters. Patient strokes will caress the pieces and leave curvy blotches on them (photos #12, #13 and #14).
Pots and cups and lids and vases look beautiful before being cooked. Some will survive a second visit to the oven after being retouched (photos #15 and #16).
Famous scenes on tiles are also very popular in this art (#17).
From custom made plates to a whole set of china (photos #18 and #19), choosing a Talavera piece can be a task requiring hours of strolling though shelves and display tables. The price range can be from 25 pesos (about $2) to 10,000 pesos (about $800) or more. I am terrible at math. For accurate calculations, the conversion is 12.50 pesos per dollar.
Talavera Armando is one of the five Talavera pottery factories in Puebla to have Certificación de Orígen (Certification of Origin to document the authenticity of a Mexican product). This form of art has the number four certification (photo #20). Tequila has the number one, and Michoacán wood the number three, just to mention two important 100% Mexican products.
One of Ryan's dearest dreams is to have a Poblana style kitchen, covered in Talavera. I agree. Give me that, and those huge gas ranges that cover a 5-feet long counter. And of course, pots and pots of Mole Poblano.
Talavera Armando, Galería Barroca (make sure you ask for a tour): 7 Oriente No. 8, Int. 7. Phone: 232-78-28.
